Introduction
The
aim of this work is to show the Armenian Costume from ancient historical
times up to the I quarted of the XX century. In Armenia as well
as every where Costume has become liable to the historical evolution
of different centuries.
Urartu. - In the IX century (B.C.) Urartu was a very powerful kingdom
(table 1, the map). During the archaeological excavations there
were found many remarkable documents illustrating the Urartian costumes
(tables 1, 2 and 3).
The Period of Formation of the Armenian People. From the times of
Urartian domination upon the High-lands of Armenia, there were aiso
different tribes living there, the main of which were Hayasa-Azzies
and Arim Armens, who merged in the course of centuries. We haven't
got any documents illustrating their costumes but according to the
evidence supplied by the well-known historian Tacite (55-120 A.D.)-
"Armenians as to their geographical position and their customs
had intimate relations with Parthas. Their costumes were alike as
well" (table 5).
The
Armenian Costume in the Period of Artashesian Dynasty. - In the
year of 189 B.C. on the initiative of king Artashes I an independent
kingdomwas formed in Armenia. The dominating language in the expanded
Armenia was Armenian. Tigran II (95-56 B.C.) being himself a great
" Hellenophile" tried to apread the Hellenistic culture
all over Armenia. But as to the costume, he tried to preserve the
traditional one as it is seen from the representations on the Roman
coins (table 6, fig. 1-7, table 7, the picture of the court of Tigran
the Great.).
The Armenian Costume in the Period of Arshakounian Dynasty (66-428
A.D.)- The branch of Parthian-Arshakounies in Armenia founded the
dynasty of Armenian-Arshakounies. As has been mentioned adove the
friedship established between these two peoples found its reflection
in the likeness of costumes as well and, especially, in military
and prince's uniforms.
Armenia
- The Apple of Discord Beyween Sasanian Persia and the Byzantium
Empire. - In 226 A.D., when the throne of Iran passed to the Sassanian
dynasty there was put an end to the peaceful co-existence between
Armenians and Parthians. Sassanians couldn't stand the fact that
Armenia became co-religious with their enemy-the Byzantium Empire-accepting
Cristianity in 301 and founding their own alphabet and literature
in 406 thus preserving independence at least in cultural spheres.But
in military and prince's ranks they were obliged to adopt the costume
of the Persian court, and it was only the common people that preserved
their traditional costume unchangesble and of which we have but
very few historical facts. But in Eastern Armenia there were found
some tombs of the IV-VII c.c., on which in the from of high-relief
are illustrated figures of a prince, a nobleman, a craftsman, of
women and common people (tables 11,12 and 13 that are the reconstructions
of the originals on tables 89 and 90).
The
Period of the Arab Dominination 9640-885). - This period was disastrous
for Armenia. The alien Arab costume was but rarely adopted by those
Armenian princes and owners of caravans-merchants, that had any
relations with Arabs.
In the period of Bagratounian Reigh (885-1045). Armenia grew economically
and culturally. The Armenian court maintained friendly relations
with the Arab soultanat from where it used to get precious costumes.
But as a rule they wore coronet and a royal garb.
The
Armenian-Cilician Reigh (1080-1219).- In the XIcentury the majority
of the people of eastern states of Byzantian Empire were Armenians,
because Armenian princes being subjected of the Seljuk invasion
had to take a refuge together with their armies in Byzantium states
and, particularly, in Cilicia. In the XI century Levon II in Cilicia
Founded the Cilician Kingdom. Due to the faurable geographical position
of Cilicia Armenians came into contact with European peoples. This
is the very reason that the Armenian costume of Cilicia to some
extent carries foreigh influence as it is seen on the Armenian coins
of Cilicia and especially in the miniatures (tables 19, 20 and 21).
The Period of Mongolian Domination (XIII-XIV c.c.).- Armenia as
well as the Transcaucasus was subjected to the destructive domination
of Mongols. In order to make exaction easy they kept local princes
who adopted their costumes as it is seen from table No. 56 and from
the miniature illustrations of that time. But the working people
were faithful to their national costume.
Armenia Under the Turkish Domination.- Beginning from the XIII-XIV
c.c. the turks from the Middle Asian tribes invaded the countries
of the Middle Eeast and, meeting almost no resistance, advanced
from the ruined Armenia up to the dominations of the Byzantine Empire
and to the Seljuk Soultanat of Gonia. After that the countries of
the decaying empire alternately fell under the domination of the
Turkish Osman and in 1453 with the seizure of Constantinople the
Byzantine Empire didn't exist any more. But the newly founded Osmanian
Empire had to begin a long war against Persia in the East for domination
upon Armenia,the third-fourth of which in the long run remained
under the Osmanian domination. Thus Armenia was divided into two
parts: Easter Armenia-under the Persian domination, and Western
Armenia-under the Turkish domination. These two parts varied from
the point of view of their costumes. The Musulman religion of the
rulers forbade the subject Cristians to wear indentical costumes
and thus Armenians fully preserved their traditional national costume.
Armenians as culturally more advanced were busy in all the branches
of craft especially in supplying texture and in tailor's art.This
had significant influence in gradual imporovement of the ruling
tribe's costumes.
Due
to its many-century evolution and geogra phical position the Armenian
costume played a nodal role amond the costumes of the people of
the Middle East. Undoubtedly, the Armenian costume as well, especially
for men ware was partly influenced by the neighboring peoples and
vice versa, but preserved its national style in general.
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